After three days, I leave the capital and move inland towards Nizwa. As I travel further away from the city, it becomes clear how closely life here is linked to its surroundings, how limited resources are handled as a matter of course. I quickly get the feeling that people make do with what they have and are content with their world, which from our perspective seems small. This focus on the essentials results in wonderful things, such as the Damask roses on the terraces of Jebel Al Akhdar or the sacred frankincense in the Dhofar Mountains. Much here does not need to be questioned or reinvented, as these are routines that have proven themselves over a long period of time, whether in family structures, the trading rituals of the souks, or the natural dependence on water, which is distributed through the ancient aflaj irrigation systems.

The journey continues through the desert region of Wahiba Sands to Sur, and between the mountains, the desert, and the coast, the landscape changes constantly. The basic impression, however, remains the same, as if everything were following an inner measure that does not need to be accelerated, and this is precisely where my own view shifts. Away from inner dissatisfaction and restlessness, towards quiet and natural awareness.

It has been a long time since I last experienced how emptiness can be felt and how, through quiet observation, this emptiness can be filled with new content. Oman does not provoke or overpower, but opens up space for new perspectives without having to name or evaluate them.

What remains is not a loud memory, but a quiet clarity of a country that presents itself as modern and open to the world, while placing great importance on preserving its Arab and Islamic identity. Perspectives sometimes arise precisely when you stop trying to force them.

Leer>>> Sultan Qabus bin Said

>>> Sultan Qabus bin Said

>>> Oman production of frankincense

>>> Dates production in Oman

>>> Roses in Oman

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From the history:
In May 1596, two Dutch ships left Amsterdam and sailed northwards. It was the third year in which Willem Barentsz was in search for the Northwest Passage. This time they attempted a route directly to the North Pole. After the explorers hit the ice edge, they followed it to the south-east and located land again on 17 June at about 80° north. They described the terrain as “nothing but mountains and sharp peaks, so we called the new land (het nieuve land)… Spitsbergen”. The first travellers to Spitsbergen were struck by the enormous numbers of whales, seals and walruses. In the centuries that followed, systematic plundering was carried out, particularly by England, France and the Netherlands. The sad climax came between 1669 and 1778, when a total of 58,000 whales were caught and butchered. The elimination of whale stocks has not recovered significantly to this day.

Today’s Spitsbergen presents itself to the visitor as extraordinary, lonely and arctic. 1300 kilometres from the North Pole and with an annual average temperature of -7.5°C, there are currently around 2700 inhabitants from 50 nations living on Spitsbergen. The three largest towns, Longyearbyen, Sveagruva and Barentsburg, are not connected by roads, which makes the supply and communication quite exciting. In general, there are only 40 kilometres of roads around Longyearbyen, so the best way to travel is by ship.

Travelling on the Noorderlicht:
My journey began in Longyearbyen, the capital of Spitsbergen. As soon as I arrived, I was impressed by the clear, cool air and the breathtaking scenery. The small town exudes a unique blend of modern convenience and Arctic adventure. I had a day to explore the area and visit the university with the Svalbard Museum before leaving to the harbour and embarking on my home for the next 8 days, the Noorderlicht. The Noorderlicht is a former lightship, which was built in Flensburg in 1910 and served as a “lighthouse replacement” for decades. The converted ship now combines old sailing tradition and modernity and is perfect for exploring the bays and glaciers around the many rough fjords of Spitsbergen.

Glaciers are unforgettable places and I don’t know anyone who hasn’t been fascinated and impressed by this mighty spectacle of millennia-old elemental power. During the trip, we were repeatedly inspired by the fragile beauty of the Arctic tundra with its fascinating plants and animals. The adaptability to these extreme conditions is amazing. I often wondered about the motivation of people to live here all year round. Whether it’s total darkness and cold for over 4 months or all-day sunshine in the polar summer. Many of the old whaling stations and trapper’s huts tell similar stories and fates and yet the challenge and fascination for this extreme and harsh environment seems unbroken.

The unforgettable memories of the untouched nature, the fascinating wildlife and the unique landscapes will remain a lasting memory. I only hope that prudent development will also give the next generation the opportunity to experience the beauty and wonder of the Arctic. 

IMPRESSION

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>>> Willem Barents

>>> The Noorderlicht

>>> Ralf Stange – Svalbard 

>>> Sea Ice Portal

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What does it mean to go to Greenland in the Central European summer? First of all, you will be surprised how green Greenland is and how bright the nights can be. The summer meadows are blooming, the sheep fields are in full beauty and waiting to be harvested. Millions of mosquitoes are looking forward to fresh blood and the temperatures are pleasant 3-15 degrees. Unfortunately, much of this is already due to global warming. Regions such as Southwest Greenland have been affected just severals years before (3 degrees in the last 10 years), which of course leads to serious changes in the environment.

What is so unique about Greenland ? Everything in Greenland is characterized by the immense forces of nature, the Greenland Current, the numerous glaciers and the inland ice. 80% of the country is covered with up to 3 km thick ice, which after Antarctica, forms the second largest ice sheet in the world.

The culture of the Inuit is also unique… shaped by living with these elemental forces, their thoughts and actions appear to be so uniquely different. Much is reflected in their language or facial expressions… much in their spirituality or shamanism. Western standards of comparison are completely inappropriate, which finally leads to immense problems in society due to the process of Globalization… the Inuit are forced to adapt to the global influence.

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IMPRESSION

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>>> The Inuits 

>>> Greenland Climate Change

>>> Greenland Ice Sheet Changing

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