After three days, I leave the capital and move inland towards Nizwa. As I travel further away from the city, it becomes clear how closely life here is linked to its surroundings, how limited resources are handled as a matter of course. I quickly get the feeling that people make do with what they have and are content with their world, which from our perspective seems small. This focus on the essentials results in wonderful things, such as the Damask roses on the terraces of Jebel Al Akhdar or the sacred frankincense in the Dhofar Mountains. Much here does not need to be questioned or reinvented, as these are routines that have proven themselves over a long period of time, whether in family structures, the trading rituals of the souks, or the natural dependence on water, which is distributed through the ancient aflaj irrigation systems.

The journey continues through the desert region of Wahiba Sands to Sur, and between the mountains, the desert, and the coast, the landscape changes constantly. The basic impression, however, remains the same, as if everything were following an inner measure that does not need to be accelerated, and this is precisely where my own view shifts. Away from inner dissatisfaction and restlessness, towards quiet and natural awareness.

It has been a long time since I last experienced how emptiness can be felt and how, through quiet observation, this emptiness can be filled with new content. Oman does not provoke or overpower, but opens up space for new perspectives without having to name or evaluate them.

What remains is not a loud memory, but a quiet clarity of a country that presents itself as modern and open to the world, while placing great importance on preserving its Arab and Islamic identity. Perspectives sometimes arise precisely when you stop trying to force them.

Leer>>> Sultan Qabus bin Said

>>> Sultan Qabus bin Said

>>> Oman production of frankincense

>>> Dates production in Oman

>>> Roses in Oman

Leer

From the history:
In May 1596, two Dutch ships left Amsterdam and sailed northwards. It was the third year in which Willem Barentsz was in search for the Northwest Passage. This time they attempted a route directly to the North Pole. After the explorers hit the ice edge, they followed it to the south-east and located land again on 17 June at about 80° north. They described the terrain as “nothing but mountains and sharp peaks, so we called the new land (het nieuve land)… Spitsbergen”. The first travellers to Spitsbergen were struck by the enormous numbers of whales, seals and walruses. In the centuries that followed, systematic plundering was carried out, particularly by England, France and the Netherlands. The sad climax came between 1669 and 1778, when a total of 58,000 whales were caught and butchered. The elimination of whale stocks has not recovered significantly to this day.

Today’s Spitsbergen presents itself to the visitor as extraordinary, lonely and arctic. 1300 kilometres from the North Pole and with an annual average temperature of -7.5°C, there are currently around 2700 inhabitants from 50 nations living on Spitsbergen. The three largest towns, Longyearbyen, Sveagruva and Barentsburg, are not connected by roads, which makes the supply and communication quite exciting. In general, there are only 40 kilometres of roads around Longyearbyen, so the best way to travel is by ship.

Travelling on the Noorderlicht:
My journey began in Longyearbyen, the capital of Spitsbergen. As soon as I arrived, I was impressed by the clear, cool air and the breathtaking scenery. The small town exudes a unique blend of modern convenience and Arctic adventure. I had a day to explore the area and visit the university with the Svalbard Museum before leaving to the harbour and embarking on my home for the next 8 days, the Noorderlicht. The Noorderlicht is a former lightship, which was built in Flensburg in 1910 and served as a “lighthouse replacement” for decades. The converted ship now combines old sailing tradition and modernity and is perfect for exploring the bays and glaciers around the many rough fjords of Spitsbergen.

Glaciers are unforgettable places and I don’t know anyone who hasn’t been fascinated and impressed by this mighty spectacle of millennia-old elemental power. During the trip, we were repeatedly inspired by the fragile beauty of the Arctic tundra with its fascinating plants and animals. The adaptability to these extreme conditions is amazing. I often wondered about the motivation of people to live here all year round. Whether it’s total darkness and cold for over 4 months or all-day sunshine in the polar summer. Many of the old whaling stations and trapper’s huts tell similar stories and fates and yet the challenge and fascination for this extreme and harsh environment seems unbroken.

The unforgettable memories of the untouched nature, the fascinating wildlife and the unique landscapes will remain a lasting memory. I only hope that prudent development will also give the next generation the opportunity to experience the beauty and wonder of the Arctic. 

IMPRESSION

Leer

>>> Willem Barents

>>> The Noorderlicht

>>> Ralf Stange – Svalbard 

>>> Sea Ice Portal

Leer

Today, Uzbekistan is a magnet for curious travellers interested in culture, history and exotic countries. The architectural monuments are the pride of the locals, as they have survived the ages and represent the heritage of their ancestors. Places such as the Ichan-Kala complex in Khiva and the historical centres of Bukhara and Samarkand are on the UNESCO list of “World Heritage Sites”. The unique monuments, magnificent mosques and madrasahs in these cities tell stories from an era that significantly shaped the country. Despite numerous attempts by foreign cultures to change the traditions and customs of the Uzbeks, these have been preserved over the centuries. The influence of Islam, spread by the Arabs in Central Asia, has strongly characterised the customs and traditions, but at the same time they are closely interwoven with the local culture and deeply rooted in the everyday life and minds of the Uzbek people. Despite the destruction of some historical buildings during the invasion of Tsarist Russia, they still remain witnesses to millions of people who appreciate art and culture.

Don’t forget to try the bread in Samarkand…
…there is no tastier bread than flatbread from Samarkand. A genuine flatbread from Samarkand should be edible for three years. All you need to do is sprinkle it with water and heat it in the tandur (clay oven in which flatbread is baked). Anyone who has ever been to Samarkand never leaves the city without Samarkand flatbread. This tradition has survived to this day and…
…every region of Uzbekistan has its own traditional cuisine, and the world-famous pilaf is prepared here in around a hundred different ways.

The Silk Road:
The history of this ancient trade route hides many secrets. Entire cultures have blossomed and faded, civilisations have appeared and disappeared, travellers have made groundbreaking discoveries, artisans have created monumental masterpieces. For centuries, the path of this route has remained intact, connecting China with the regions of Eurasia. No wonder that many legends and stories have been preserved along the “Road of Life”.

From the second century AD, it was silk in particular that was transported by Chinese traders to distant lands. Despite its high price, this compact and lightweight product attracted the attention of many traders along the caravan route, from Central Asia and Turkestan to India, Rome and Alexandria. Cleopatra seems to have had a passion for luxurious silk clothing, and in the early Christian centuries there was even a special silk market in Rome. One legend tells of Emperor Justinian of Byzantium in the sixth century, who commissioned two monks to bring precious mulberry silkworms from China. The monks are said to have hidden the “treasure” in a bamboo stick, as the discovery of the cocoons by the Chinese would have meant the death penalty for the clergy.
The exact circumstances are difficult to confirm today, but the centuries-old secret of silk production was finally revealed.
In addition to silk, bronze mirrors, porcelain, ceramics, paper goods and metal products were also shipped from China to distant lands. On the other hand, there was a strong demand in the Middle Kingdom, as China was known at the time, for jade from Hotan, lapis lazuli from Bodakhshan, Indian carpets, glass from the Mediterranean and horses from Fergana.

Leer

IMPRESSION

…and at night the cities of Uzbekistan glow with a unique oriental flair:

Leer

>>> Amir Temur

>>> Ulug beg 

>>> Avicenna oder Ibn Sina

Leer